Wander With Sky: Smoke, Skewers, and Nostalgia: A Night in Omoide Yokocho (#MyJapanTravelSeries)

Flashy little lights and cute red chōchin lanterns adorn the alleyway

Welcome to Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku’s smoky little alleyway where nostalgia meets grilled seafood skewers and questionable decisions. The name literally means “Memory Lane”—fitting, because you’ll definitely leave with memories, though some may be slightly blurred depending on how many rounds of sake or beer you order.

This place is a maze of tiny bars and yakitori joints, each barely big enough to fit you, your friend, and the chef’s elbow. The menus are simple: skewers, beer, and the occasional mystery dish you’ll order just to prove you’re adventurous. The atmosphere? Imagine stepping into post-war Tokyo, but with Wi-Fi , towering skyscrapers and Instagrammers lurking in the corner.

It’s a little pricey, but what the heck—I’m here for an adventure, right?

Pricey, but don't care

I was amazed at how this narrow alley makes such a big impact on travelers, tucked inside Shinjuku’s urban jungle, specifically near the west exit of Shinjuku Station. After partying in the red-light district, you might want to grab another beer with a stick of grilled calamari.

Blinding neon lights of Shinjuku

Flashy little lights and cute red chōchin lanterns adorn the alleyway, making the place irresistibly Instagrammable. It gives off a nostalgic post-war Japan vibe, all while being surrounded by towering modern skyscrapers.

The other side of the alleyway

This alley, which you can walk end-to-end in just two minutes, was once a black market in the late 1940s selling food and daily necessities. Today, its cramped izakayas are worth visiting because eating smoky yakitori in a tight alley while strangers brush past you is somehow magical. It’s chaotic, authentic, and the kind of place where you’ll swear you’re just “grabbing a quick bite” but end up staying until midnight.

How to Get to there :

Route 1: The Direct Way (Via the West Exit)

This is the most straightforward path from the main platform levels.

Find the West Exit: Follow the yellow overhead signs inside the station down to the B1 level and head through the JR West Gate.
Head to Street Level: Walk past the ticket gates and head up the stairs to ground level near the bus terminals.
Walk North: Turn right (north) and walk straight along the main street with the train tracks on your right side.
Spot the Entrance: Walk past the Uniqlo store. You will see the iconic green and red neon signs and lanterns marking the entrance alley on your right side.

Route 2: The Underpass Way (Via the East Exit)

If you accidentally exit into the bright lights of the East side (near Studio Alta), do not go back inside.

Locate the Underpass: Standing outside the East Exit, look to your left for a brick pedestrian underpass called the Omoide Chikado.
Cross Under the Tracks: Walk through this tunnel to safely cross directly underneath the elevated train tracks.
Arrive at the Alleys: As soon as you emerge on the other side of the underpass, the entrance to Omoide Yokocho will be immediately on your right.